Remove Rust from Pans with Baking Soda: how this kitchen staple erases rust like magic

Published on December 27, 2025 by Sophia in

Illustration of removing rust from a cast-iron pan using baking soda paste and a nylon brush

Rust creeping across a favourite frying pan feels like a small tragedy. The good news: your cure is already in the cupboard. Baking soda — known in many UK kitchens as bicarbonate of soda — lifts rust gently, cheaply, and without noxious fumes. Its soft grit and mild alkalinity loosen iron oxide so it wipes away rather than fighting you at the sink. No specialist kit. No scratched surfaces. Just patience and a simple paste. For most surface rust, bicarbonate restores shine without stripping the pan back to bare metal. Here’s how it works, how to do it properly, and how to protect your pans so the orange bloom never returns.

Why Baking Soda Beats Rust Without Harsh Chemicals

Rust removal often conjures images of pungent acids and heavy-duty wire brushes. Baking soda charts a different course. As a mild alkali, it helps loosen the bond between iron oxide and the metal beneath, while its fine particles provide a controlled, non-scratching abrasion. That combination matters. It means you can massage away surface rust on cast iron, carbon steel, or even stainless steel without chewing up the base material or shredding whatever seasoning remains. It’s food-safe, odourless, and inexpensive. For light patches, it often works in a single pass; for heavier oxidation, a thicker paste and time do the heavy lifting.

Commercial removers can be fast, but they’re overkill for everyday cookware and can etch metal or strip polymerised oil layers entirely. Baking soda plays the long game: it buffers pH, lifts the oxide, and lets your sponge or non-scratch pad do the rest. If you value control — and want to stop the job the second the rust is gone — bicarbonate is the friendly tool. It’s also forgiving. Miss a spot? Reapply the paste and repeat, with far less risk than an acid bath.

Step-by-Step: The Effervescent Paste That Lifts Oxide

Start simple. Rinse the pan with warm water and wipe away loose debris. Mix three to five tablespoons of baking soda with just enough water to form a spreadable paste — think yoghurt, not soup. Smear the paste over the rusty areas, working it into pits and around rivets. Leave it for ten to fifteen minutes so the moisture can creep under the oxide. Now scrub with a nylon scourer or a stiff washing-up brush, using short, firm strokes. Rinse. Assess. Light rust should already be fading to a grey haze; repeat once if needed. Resist steel wool unless you’re ready to re-season from scratch.

Stubborn rust? Reapply a thicker paste, cover the area with a piece of damp kitchen roll to keep it from drying, and let it sit for an hour. For severe patches on unseasoned metal, a brief pre-soak with hot water and a squeeze of lemon can help — but be cautious with cast iron, because acid will strip seasoning. Rinse thoroughly, then dry the pan immediately on a low hob to drive off hidden moisture. While it’s warm, wipe on a whisper-thin film of oil and buff until it looks dry. This locks out air while you plan a fuller re-season if needed.

Which Pans Benefit Most: A Quick Guide

Different pans respond differently to bicarbonate of soda. Cast iron and carbon steel tolerate the paste brilliantly, but both will need oiling and likely a short seasoning cycle after rust removal. Stainless steel seldom rusts, yet tea-coloured spots around rivets surrender quickly to baking soda and a nylon pad. Enameled cast iron rarely rusts unless the enamel chips; if bare metal shows at a chip’s edge, use a gentle paste and a soft sponge only. Aluminium forms its own oxide layer; you can still use baking soda, but keep contact brief to avoid dulling the surface. Match the method to the metal and you’ll protect your investment.

Here’s a compact view you can keep near the sink. It captures the best approach without guesswork and flags the aftercare that prevents the next round of orange speckles. A minute of preparation, a measured scrub, and careful drying make the difference between a rescue and a repeat performance.

Pan Type Rust Risk Baking Soda Method Post-Clean Care
Cast iron High if left damp Thick paste, short dwell, nylon scrub Dry on hob; oil; heat to smoke to re-season
Carbon steel High during early use Medium paste, targeted scrub Dry fast; thin oil film; quick seasoning pass
Stainless steel Low; spots near rivets Light paste, gentle circular scrub Rinse well; towel-dry; store dry
Enameled iron/steel Low unless chipped Very light paste on chip only Dry thoroughly; avoid soaking
Aluminium Oxidises rather than rusts Brief paste contact; gentle wipe Rinse promptly; dry; avoid long alkali soaks

What to Do After the Rust Is Gone

Drying is not a step; it’s the strategy. Heat the pan on a low flame for three to five minutes to evaporate water hiding in seams and pores. While warm, wipe on a teaspoon of neutral oil — rapeseed is a resilient UK staple — then buff until the surface looks almost bare. For cast iron or carbon steel, bake upside down at 200–230°C for an hour to rebuild a protective seasoning. That polymerised layer is your anti-rust shield and your non-stick magic. Skip this and the rust will return with the next humid day.

Stainless steel needs less ceremony but still deserves care: remove all baking soda residue, towel-dry, and store with good airflow. Avoid stacking wet lids on any pan. A paper towel between pans adds a moisture buffer and prevents scuffs. If your cupboard runs damp, a small tub of rice or a reusable desiccant pack quietly reduces humidity. Finally, adjust habits: never leave pans soaking overnight; don’t air-dry on a draining rack; and always heat-dry briefly after washing. These tiny rituals keep oxidation at bay for good.

Safety, Myths, and When to Try Something Else

Bicarbonate of soda is gentle, but technique matters. Don’t mix it with bleach — pointless for rust and not safe. Be wary of aggressive scouring on non-stick coatings; a soft sponge and a light paste only, or you’ll shorten the pan’s life. Acid-and-bicarb “volcano” tricks look dramatic yet can strip seasoning from cast iron; save acids for stainless steel or for bare-metal restoration where you plan to re-season fully. If the metal shows deep pitting or flaking, you’ve moved beyond surface rust and into restoration territory.

At that point, step up carefully: try fine-grade wire wool with oil on bare cast iron, or a purpose-made rust eraser. For heirloom skillets, electrolytic derusting or a professional refinish may be worth it, followed by a thorough seasoning cycle. Always dry promptly, wear washing-up gloves if you have sensitive skin, and ventilate if you use any acids elsewhere in your routine. The principle remains constant: remove moisture, protect the surface, and oxidation loses its foothold.

Baking soda doesn’t shout. It simply works, turning a dreaded scrub into a tidy, near-silent ritual that respects your cookware and your wallet. From Sunday fry-ups in a carbon steel pan to a faithful cast-iron griddle, this humble powder rescues, then protects. Keep it beside the sink, keep a nylon scourer to hand, and turn drying into a habit. The reward is a pan that cooks cleaner, browns better, and lasts longer. Ready to reclaim the rest of your kitchen kit from rust — and which pan will you rescue first?

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